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Introduction |

Having
been to California in 2003 and not being able to fit in a look at the Grand
Canyon, this trip was dedicated to touring the canyons and other natural sites
of Northern Arizona and Southern Utah. The itinerary fell into place quite
easily when the map was studied, since a loop could take in some of the most
spectacular vistas that can be encountered anywhere. The arrival airport could
realistically have been either Phoenix or Las Vegas, but the circuit more
naturally lent itself to the latter.
Following
our arrival in Las Vegas, and an overnight stay there, we left the next morning
to cover the following locations:
Flagstaff. Set at a
relatively high altitude, this is a good central spot for various differing
parks and also Sedona, which is a very picturesque town to the South. Early
mornings here were cold (around 40°F);
Grand Canyon. It has to
be done, and is every bit as spectacular as you have heard. The best direction
to approach the National Park is from the East entrance, since the road from
here passes many outlooks from the South rim. Within Grand Canyon Village
itself, there is a worthwhile walk westwards along the rim. We found it was
best to buy an annual pass to the National Parks, since this worked out better
value than day passes when also visiting Bryce Canyon, Zion, Arches, and
Capitol Reef;
Page. This is
the town set up in the 1950's to service the building of the Glen Canyon dam.
It is thus located only a couple of miles from Lake Powell, which is probably
of most interest to water sports enthusiasts. However, there is a good 8 mile
circular rim walk around Page, with some nice views of the lake and also one or
two birds to be seen. In addition, Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend are well
recommended;
Moab. Many
people visit here for the water based activities on the Colorado River. For
ourselves, the two main reasons for the visit were Arches NP, which is only 5
miles to the North, and Monument Valley, which is on route from Page;
Bryce Canyon. This is at
a higher elevation than expected, which keeps the daytime temperatures down to
a respectable level, and the composition of the canyon itself is astounding.
Not only does Bryce offer stunning scenery, but the accompanying forest and sage
brush land over the highway are good for both birds and mammals.
While a
little bit of research into the birding sites of the area was conducted before
leaving, the main object of the holiday was to see the sites, and staying 2-3
nights in each of the locations left little time for any other activities. That
being said, the geology and interest from the natural wonders of the area are
unbelievable, and should be enjoyed in their own right. Some birds can be seen
at some of these locations, but lack of them is by no means a disappointment.
The
timing of the trip was intended to fit in with our other holidays, so the fact
that we were in the area during the driest month was a useful coincidence. Not
only was there no rain during our stay, but even clouds were few and far
between. Temperatures
varied hugely from one location to another, with highs in Las Vegas being bring
up to 109°C (even nights didn't drop out of the 80's), to the much more
refreshing 70's - 80's of Flagstaff and Bryce Canyon. Car hire was booked via
the internet and using Dollar, which was much cheaper than the counter prices.
We treated ourselves to a convertible, which was a good investment given the
weather.

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Arizona
Mountain Inn, Flagstaff There
seem to be many chain hotels within the town, but this is a much better
location, since the main building (with 2 recommended reasonably priced suites
including breakfast) and associated cabins are surrounded by ponderosa pines.
This offers some immediate birding on the doorstep, and while the variety of
species is limited and generally of commoner types, seeing such characters as
Western Bluebirds and Hairy Woodpeckers close up and almost on demand outside
of the back door is rewarding. |
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Yavapai
Lodge, Grand Canyon Accommodation
within Grand Canyon Village is limited, with only 4 lodges to choose from. When
we arrived at Yavapai, all rooms were booked, which is probably why most
tourists either stay at Tusayan a little further South, or visit for the day.
Hence booking ahead in the Summer is advisable, but the reward is to be able to
sleep within walking distance of the local California Condor population.
Yavapai seems to be the more basic of the choices, but still offers a roomy and
clean respite, surrounded by pine woodland with ample potential for a small
variety of common species. |
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Marriott
Courtyard, Page Page
is located 2 miles from the Glen Canyon dam, which is the reason for the
existence of Lake Powell, and even for the town of Page itself, since it was
founded in the 1950's for the construction of the dam. There are many chain
motels in the town, but the Marriott is set aside from habitation for a still reasonable
price. It is also next to a golf course, but this didn't seem to hold anything
of particular interest. An 8 mile rim trail around the town is worth doing for
the spectacular views of the lake. |
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Mayor's
House, Moab Moab
is the largest town in South-eastern Utah, and hence has a good variety of
chain hotels, but it also offers very reasonably priced B&B's such as this.
The property is set to the East of town towards the hills. Worthy of note are
the excellent (but not too filling) breakfasts, and the lack of any keys to
enter the property and rooms (no need for them according to the owners). It has
a small garden with pool, and of avian interest the nest of a pair of
Black-billed Magpies. I did walk the street looking for birds one afternoon,
but in the high heat only came up with Western Kingbirds, Lesser Goldfinches,
and copious American Robins & House Finches. |
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Bryce
Canyon Lodge There is one lodge within Bryce Canyon NP, and several less expensive ones just outside. On the face of it, there doesn't seem a great benefit in the former, since a car or shuttle is still required to reach many of the viewpoints and hikes. One of the beauties of the lodge is the proximity to the main road, and more exactly, the open area of sage brush beyond. This has great potential for open meadow and sage specialists. |
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Introduction |